HOW ESPR WILL RESHAPE RECYCLING AND SUSTAINABILITY
FROM WASTE TO RESOURCE
From 18 July 2024, a crucial milestone in European environmental policy takes effect: the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). With the ESPR replacing the 2009 Ecodesign Directive, the European Union has set in motion a new phase in the journey towards a truly circular economy. Central to this new legislation is a sharpened focus on the textile industry, a sector with enormous potential to reduce emissions, improve resource efficiency, and shift towards high-quality recycling. As new rules come into force, businesses across the textile value chain, from brands and manufacturers to recyclers, face both significant challenges and fresh opportunities.
Do you want to read more about the upcoming EU laws and regulations?
Read our article EU Textile Waste Directive: Key Updates for SMEs in 2025.
KEY ESPR REQUIREMENTS
ESPR extends well beyond its predecessor by establishing horizontal rules for almost all physical goods on the EU market, not just energy-related products. The regulation mandates products to meet strict performance and information requirements, emphasising durability, repairability, reusability, upgradability, and, crucially, recyclability. Among the most anticipated aspects are thresholds for recycled content, likely to be included as minimum requirements. Compliance is mandatory, supported by measures such as technical documentation, traceability, and the introduction of the Digital Product Passport (DPP), which will detail a product’s environmental and sustainability credentials.
The scope of ESPR ensures that manufacturers, importers, distributors, retailers, and online marketplace operators, essentially anyone introducing goods onto the EU market, must comply. The regulation's first working plan, due by April 2025, prioritises textiles/apparel, furniture, and shoes, meaning businesses in these areas will feel the impact almost immediately. The roadmap includes dedicated actions on apparel, with a preparatory study and forum set for early 2026 and a delegated act on textiles expected by early 2027.
THE EFFECT OF ESPR ON THE TEXTILE RECYCLING VALUE CHAIN
In a recent TexScale webinar, The Loop Factory, together with industrial partners Rester (Finland) and SYSAV (Sweden), examined the likely industry impacts of ESPR. Both Rester and SYSAV are at the forefront of mechanical sorting and fibre recycling, and brought candid views from the frontlines.
Rester explained that while textile collection and mechanical recycling technologies are well developed, critical hurdles remain in meeting the technical and quality requirements of end-use products. Most currently recycled fibres come from B2B or post-industrial sources, thus cleaner and more homogeneous than post-consumer waste. Moving towards greater use of post-consumer textiles, as ESPR demands, will require overcoming contamination, fibre blending, and property loss. As stated by Rester, “the main challenge is not the collection, sorting and supply of textile waste, nor the recycled fibre as such. The challenge is rather the requirements deriving from the final product, where the recycled fibre is used.”
Both partners agreed that ESPR’s minimum recycled content requirements will not drive true circularity unless the entire value chain invests in innovation and works collaboratively. Rester highlighted the risk of continuing with isolated pilot projects. “Development and adaptation to recycled raw material is needed in all production steps. Together, we can drive the change with a focus on scalable solutions, instead of producers doing single pilots with small, closed-loop fractions.”
SYSAV echoed that traceability, one of ESPR's key demands, remains a significant challenge, especially when dealing with fragmented post-consumer waste. The advent of the Digital Product Passport is promising, but practicalities such as tracking textiles throughout multiple life cycles and the costs of compliance must be addressed.
Currently, only a tiny fraction of textiles recycled in Europe derive from post-consumer waste, with the majority still industrial waste. With ESPR on the horizon, policy and financial mechanisms must actively support the shift towards post-consumer flows.
Both Rester and SYSAV stressed that the new regulation will only succeed if there is genuine market demand for products containing recycled fibres, and if infrastructure and collaboration are scaled up across the industry.
PRACITCAL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR BRANDS
To prepare for ESPR, textile businesses should take the following actions today:
Assess current portfolios: Review all products against ESPR criteria, with a focus on prioritised sectors (e.g., textiles and footwear), to identify risks and improvement opportunities.
Prepare for DPP implementation: Start collecting and managing sustainability data now, ensuring full traceability and adequate technical documentation for all products.
Engage with supply chain partners: Foster collaboration throughout the supply chain, from raw material suppliers to recyclers and distributors, to efficiently share information and ensure compliance.
Stay informed: ESPR’s working plan and product requirements will be updated regularly. Even for businesses not directly impacted in the first cycle, proactive engagement is wise, as future cycles may broaden the scope.
The ESPR marks the beginning of a new era for Europe’s textile industry. The regulation’s ambitious circularity and sustainability goals will require dedication, investment, and collaboration across the supply chain. By embracing these changes early and working together, textile businesses can not only ensure compliance but also position themselves at the forefront of Europe’s green transition. The coming years present a rare chance to lead real, lasting change, turning textile waste from a liability into a valued resource, and building a resilient, circular industry for the future.
// ROOS MULDER - DEVELOPMENT ENGINEER
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sources
European Commission (undated), ‘Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR)’, accessed 30 July 2025.
European Commission (undated), ‘EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles’, accessed 30 July 2025.
Rester
SYSAV, Siptex company website.